
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



WOOD-WORKING 

FOR 
AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



BY 

IRA S. GRIFFITH, A. B. 

Supervisor of Manual Training, Oak Park, 111.; Instructor in 
Wood-Work and Methods, Bradley Polytechnic Institute 
Summer School ; Editor Illinois Manual Arts Asso- 
ciation ; Chairman Editorial Board, Western 
Drawing and Manual Training Association. 



POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS 



CHICAGO 
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. 











Copyright, 1911 

By 
H. H. WINDSOR 






/ 
©CI.A2S6785 





II- 111% 







THIS book is one of the series of 
handbooks on industrial subjects 
being published by the Popular 
Mechanics Company. Like the 
Magazine, these books are "written 
so you can understand it," and are 
intended to furnish information on 
mechanical subjects at a price within 
the reach of all. 

The texts and illustrations have 
been prepared expressly for this 
Handbook Series, by experts; are 
up-to-date, and have been revised by 
the editor of Popular Mechanics. 





CO 


NTENTS 


PAGE 


CHAPTER 


I, 


Making Out a Stock Bill. 7 


CHAPTER 


II, 


Laying Out Rough Stock. 11 


CHAPTER 


III, 


Hand Saws 13 


CHAPTER 


IV, 


Sawing with Hand Saws. 17 


CHAPTER 


V, 


Planes : How to Set and 
Adjust the Irons 20 


CHAPTER 


VI, 


Squaring Up Mill-Planed 
Stock 2Q 


CHAPTER 


VII, 


Squaring Up Mill-Planed 
Stock (continued) 33 


CHAPTER VIII, 


Squaring Up Rough Stock 39 


CHAPTER 


IX, 


Whetting Plane Irons and 
Chisels 45 


CHAPTER 


x, 


Grinding Plane Irons and 
Chisels 50 


CHAPTER 


XI, 


Making a Bird Box 55 


CHAPTER 


XII, 


Making a Taboret 63 


CHAPTER 


XIII, 


How to Make an Um- 
brella Stand 74 


CHAPTER 


XIV, 


Making a Magazine Stand 84 


CHAPTER 


XV, 


Making a Table 93 


CHAPTER 


XVI, 


Making a Cabinet 103 



WOOD-WORKING FOR 

AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

CHAPTER I 
MAKING OUT A STOCK BILL 

THE first thing a beginner must learn to do when 
he takes a drawing from which he is to make a 
piece of woodwork, is to prepare a stock bill of ma- 
terials that can be given to the lumberman to fill. 
Whether the worker gets what he wants or not will 
depend greatly upon the specifications he gives the 
dealer, whether they are intelligible or not, and whether 
they allow one and only one interpretation. 

Three practices are common in preparing lumber 
for use: To sell it to the workman in the rough, just 
as it comes from the sawmill ; to machine-plane the 
pieces to thicknesses and widths such as the finished 
pieces demand, so that only the lengths require the 
attention of the worker — aside from the making of the 
joints ; and to mill-plane the stock on two surfaces to 
stock thicknesses, but allowing the lengths and widths 
to remain as in rough stock. 

The first is cheapest in first cost; the second is the 
most expensive because of the frequent changes in 
setting the planing machine to the different sizes. The 
third is most common, except where there are to be a 
great number of pieces of a given size, because it 
utilizes hand work and machine work to the best 
advantage. 



8 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



TICKET ■■::••.■':•'■.' 
"\>UMBER- 


NO.OF 

reeT 


Xc%\ -» 


LENGTH 


DESCRIPTION 


PRICE 




.48 


,1 r 




YELLOW PINE 

S-4-S 

Ex X-A-A WHITE 
CEDAR 5HINGLES 


30 

: : 3 


25 


52 


44 










1 ' 


14 


*2 WHITE PINE 
FLOORING 


26 




to 


50 


63 


94 







Form of Stock Bill 

Lumber Terms — Length always extends parallel to 
the grain of the wood — the way the wood splits easiest. 
Other terms are as indicated in Fig. 1. 

The unit of measurement is the board foot. This is 
1 by 12 by 12 in. Prices are usually based upon the 
1000 ft. If a board is less than 1 in. thick, it is cus- 
tomary to figure it at surface measure. The price per 
foot is reduced correspondingly, however, so that no 
advantage is taken of the purchaser. 



ARRISES 



Corner 




Board Surfaces Named 

Lumber is graded at the yards according to lumber- 
men's standards. Clear lumber is free from knots, sap, 
wind, shakes and other imperfections. Shingles are 
sold by the thousand and are packed in bunches ; laths, 
in bundles. Mouldings are sold by the running or 
lineal measure, the price being based on the 1000 ft. 



MAKING OUT A STOCK BILL 9 

The abbreviations for lumber that is to be sized, 
surfaced or machine-planed on two or four sides are 
S-2-S and S-4-S, respectively. 

For especially seasoned stock, the letters K D (kiln 
dried) are added to the description. 



j ^yw^^^ 



n ^.,.lMl.jMl,jMl,JulhlMlhl.lll.l.h1.1.l.lll.l.lll.l.l.1.l.l,l l l.l l | l I.T.I,l l lLl.lLl.l,[A 

Tongtie 



Beam 





F.o.3 



Steel Square, Try-Square and Rule 




Making a Straightedge Line 



CHAPTER II 



LAYING OUT ROUGH STOCK 

*TP HE tools needed for this are the rule, try-square 
■*■ or steel square, a straightedge and a pencil. 
Figure 2 shows the try-square and steel or framing 
square, and gives the names of the parts. The rule 
used may be the single-piece rule or the folding 2-ft 




Fig. 5 



Squaring Across a Board 



rule, such as carpenters use (Fig. 3). A straightedge 
is anything which has one of its edges straight. 

Directions : Measure off and mark the length of the 
piece required; measure off near the end the width 
wanted ; at what is to become the other end of the 
piece, mark off the width as before. With the straight- 
edge, connect these points and draw a line through 



12 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

them (Fig. 4). With the try-square or steel square 
draw a line to limit the length (Fig. 5). 

A second way to lay out the piece, where the first 
edge is fairly straight, is to thumb-gauge for width. 




"Thumb" Gauging 

This is done as shown in Fig. 6. The pencil is held 
against the end of the rule and the whole is pulled 
toward the worker. The thumbnail of the left hand 
held on the rule at the desired point acts as a gauge 
head. 



CHAPTER III 
HAND SAWS 

HAND saws are of two kinds — rip and crosscut. 
The first is for sawing along the grain, the direc- 
tion in which wood splits easiest, the other for sawing 
across the grain. The necessity for having a saw for 
each direction of cutting with reference to, the grain is 
clearly shown in Fig. 7 The ripsaw is really nothing 
more than a lot of little narrow chisels so arranged 
that they cut, one after the other, in rapid succession, 
the cutting edge, like that of the chisel, being on the 




The Way Ripsaw Teeth Cut 

front of the teeth. To cut across the grain with a rip- 
saw would be to split the wood as in A, Fig. 7. Cutting 
with the grain is shown in B. The teeth of the crosscut 
saw are so sharpened, that the cutting edges are on the 
sides of the teeth instead of in front. Figure 8 shows 
the shape of both rip and crosscut saw teeth. 

Both of these saws are sharpened with exactly the 
same tools, the differences in the teeth being due to the 
difference in angle at which the file is held in the 
process. 

13 



14 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

Sharpening a saw is considered a difficult thing to 
learn, so difficult that it is not necessary to go into a 
lengthy description for beginners. It may be worth 
while, however, to state the steps that are taken in 




. End View . 
.(Exaggerated) 



E&vta* zJ^zii^Sl 




Side View 




Fig. 3 



Rip-saw 

Cutting Edge 



Setting Saws 



putting a saw in order. The beginner ought to know 
how the tools are sharpened, even if he must attain 
more experience before attempting to sharpen them. 
First, the teeth are jointed. This is done by running 



HAND SAWS 



15 



a flat file along the length of the saw so as to cut down 
any teeth that project farther than others (Fig. 9). 
Second, the teeth are filed, a three-cornered file being 




Fig. 12 

Jointing the Sides of the Teeth 



used, the kind of saw determining the angle or 
angles at which it is held with reference to the side of 
the saw, The ripsaw is filed straight across (Fig. 10). 



16 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

The crosscut is filed as in Fig. 11. After the filing, the 
teeth are side jointed. This is done by running an oil- 
stone over the sides of the saw and teeth, as in Fig. 12. 
This will make the sides of the teeth cut a smooth kerf. 
If the saw, before filing, had a tendency to stick in 
the wood, it should have its teeth set before the top 
jointing. Figure 13 shows a modern saw-set. These 




Fig. 13 — Saw Set 

sets are adjustable so that the teeth may be bent much 
or little, as the condition of the wood necessitates. No 
more set than is necessary is a good rule. Moving the 
handles together shoves the plunger forward. This 
bends the tooth outward from the side of the saw. 
Every other tooth is set; the saw is then reversed and 
the remaining teeth are set from the second side. 



CHAPTER IV 



SAWING WITH HAND SAWS 



IN using the hand saws, the most advantageous posi- 
tion is obtained by placing the board which is to be 
sawed upon a pair of "horses" or trestles. 

Whether ripping — cutting parallel to the grain — or 
crosscutting, the manner 
of starting the cut or kerf 
and guiding the saw 
throughout the operation 
is the same. 

Figure 14 shows clearly 
the position of the hands 
when starting the kerf. 
The index finger of the 
right hand extends along 
the side of the handle to 
assist in guiding the saw. 
The thumb of the left 
hand rests upon the board 
at the place where the cut 
is to be made. AVith the 
right hand the saw blade 
is pressed lightly against 
this thumb and thus as- 
sists in setting the saw at 
the desired point. 

Begin with short, light, easy strokes, holding up on 
the saw so that it shall take small "bites" at first. 




Fig. 14 — Guiding the Saw with 
Left Thumb 



17 



18 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 




Fig. 15 — Correct Angle of Saw 

held at an angle of about 
50 or 60 deg. with the 
board. Stand so as to 
give the arm free and 
easy movement, keeping 
the eye, hand and saw 
in one and the same 
plane (Fig. 16). 

If the saw should fail 
to follow the line, a 
slight and continued 
twist with the hand that 
holds the saw handle, as 
the sawing proceeds, will 
soon cause the cutting 
edge to work its way 
back to the line. This 
twisting must be care- 
fully done or the blade 
will bind and kink. 

When nearing the fin- 



Gradually increase the 
length of stroke until 
the full arm stroke is 
obtained. Avoid short, 
jerky strokes and un- 
due pressure. Time is 
lost thereby, the saw 
cannot be properly 
guided, and the work is 
made unnecessarily la- 
borious. Figs. 15 and 
16 show the proper po- 
sition to assume. The 
saw will cut best when 




Fig. 16- 



Saw, Wrist and Elbow in 
One Plane 



SAWING WITH HAND SAWS 



19 



ish of a cut, lessen the length of the stroke and hold 

up on the saw so that little weight rests upon the 

wood ; at che same time, 

if crosscutting, reach 

over the saw and take 

hold of the overhanging 

piece (Fig. 17). 

Where it is desired to 
cut out a small piece 
from a long board, al- 
ways ripsaw first, then 
crosscut to meet this 
kerf, leaving on the 
board all but just what 
is wanted for present use. 
There are two reasons 
for this : first, economy ; 
second, there is always 
danger of splitting off 
the piece when making 
the second cut, if the 
crosscutting is done first. 




Fig. 17 — Holding Overhanging Piece 



CHAPTER V 
PLANES : HOW TO SET AND ADJUST THE IRONS 

AMONG the various planes used by wood-workers 
are the following: block plane, smooth plane, jack 
plane, jointer and a special plane known as a combina- 
tion plane. Not all of these planes are absolutely 
necessary for simple work such as a beginner would 
do, but they are desirable. The smooth plane, jack 
plane and jointer differ only in their length, width of 
cutter or plane iron, and in the manner of shaping the 
cutting edge of the plane iron. 

The jack plane, Fig. 18, is used for planing off rough 
surfaces or where it is desired to take off a large quan- 
tity of wood quickly. Since it is not expected to leave 
the surface smooth, this being done by means of 
another plane, the plane iron of the jack plane is 
ground rounding as shown in Fig. 18, B, this form of 
iron being better adapted for "roughing off." 

The smooth plane, Fig. 19, is shorter than the jack 
plane. Since it is used merely, as its name implies, for 
smoothing off surfaces that have previously been 
straightened, or surfaces where straightening is not 
essential, the short length is an advantage rather than 
a disadvantage. Its plane iron is ground straight across 
with the corners very slightly rounded (Fig. 19, B). 

For planing long edges straight, the jointer, Fig. 20, 
is used. Because of its great length it makes edge 
planing much easier than when the shorter planes are 
used. On account of its length, the high places must 




21 



22 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

be cut off before the plane iron can touch the low 
places. Its iron is sharpened like that of the smooth 
plane — straight across. 

The block plane, Fig. 21, is used for planing the ends 
of pieces of wood; for this reason no cap iron is nec- 
essary to break the shaving, there being none, only 
sawdust. It also differs from the other planes in that 
the bevel of the plane iron is turned up instead of 
down The block plane's chief advantage over the 
other planes for end planing lies in its being small 
enough to be operated with one hand, leaving the 
other free to hold the board. 

The combination plane, Fig. 22, is used in making 
grooves, rebates, etc. By an exchange of cutters it 
may be made to take the place of a great variety of 
special planes. 

Figure 23 shows a section of a modern plane and 
gives the names of the more important parts. From 
this it will be seen that the principal parts consist of 
the cap, the cap iron which breaks and bends the 
shaving (Fig. 24) so that the wood may not be torn 
up, the plane iron for cutting the wood and the frog 
to which these parts are fastened. 

Figure 25 shows the relative positions of plane iron 
and cap iron. The cutting edge of the plane iron should 
extend about iV in. below the edge of the cap iron 
for ordinary work. For fine work, the distance be- 
tween the edges should be less. The cap iron and 
plane iron must be firmly fastened together, the cap 
being used to turn the stout screw, unless a screw- 
driver is at hand ; otherwise, a few strokes will have 
pushed the iron back into the mouth of the plane. 

After these parts are securely fastened together, put 
them on the frog, plane iron down and cap iron up, 
making sure the plane iron rests flat on the frog with 



24 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

the Y-adjustment in the slot in the cap iron made for 
it. Next, place the cap in position and push down the 
cam. Should this cam work loosely and the plane iron 
and cap iron not be held firmly, adjust the cap screw. 
Ordinarily this screw when once adjusted needs no 




Fig. 26 — Adjusting the Plane Iron 



attention. Should the cam work too hard, make sure 
the plane iron is flat on the frog before releasing the 
cap screw. 

To adjust the blade or plane iron, hold it as shown 
in Fig. 26, turning the plane toward the light. Sight 



HOW TO SET AND ADJUST PLANE IRONS 25 

along the bottom, turning the adjusting nut until the 
blade will project very slightly, not much more than 
the thickness of drawing paper. The most common 
error beginners make in learning to use the plane is 
setting the plane iron too far out of the mouth of the 
plane. Move the lateral adjusting lever to one side 
or the other until the plane iron projects the same 
amount on each side. 



CHAPTER VI 
SQUARING UP MILL^PLANED STOCK 

PRACTICALLY every lumber yard carries in stock 
lumber that has been mill-planed on two surfaces 
to stock thicknesses. Wood-workers can specify the 
thickness wanted for the work they have in hand and 
thus avoid much of the drudgery necessitated by plan- 
ing up stock entirely in the rough as it comes from the 
sawmill. 

The first broad surface and the first edge planed 
have a peculiar use and definite names. The first sur- 
face is called face side or often working face. The 
first edge is called face edge or frequently joint edge. 
These are marked to distinguish them from the others, 
as shown in Fig. 27. They are the only ones marked. 
From these two faces, and these only, all testing is 
to be done, the beam of the try-square and the head of 
the gauge being held against one or the other. 

In selecting these faces, the better broad surface 
and the better edge are taken, if the object is to consist 
of but one piece. If it is to consist of several parts, 
such as a table or a chair, the poorer surfaces are to 
be selected for faces. Where several parts are to be 
joined, the faces are turned "in" because, being the 
first prepared, they are more accurate than the others. 
Any inaccuracies in the first surfaces will appear in 
the others, since they are worked from the first sur- 
faces. Some inaccuracies may be present in the second 
surfaces which are not present in the first set. For this 
reason the face sides when joined together are more 

se 



SQUARING UP MILL-PLANED STOCK 



21 



likely to make close-fitting joints than the others. Fre- 
quently there is little choice of surfaces. Generally, 
however, slight streaks of sapwood, smoothness of 
surface, etc., will be the determining factors. 




Fig. 27 — Face Marks 




Fig. 28 — Surfacing a Board 



Planing First Surface 

Should the piece not be of equal width and thick- 
ness, select the broad surface which is desired for face 
side. With the smooth plane remove the mill-marks 



28 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



from it. Mill-marks are the little ridges and hollows 
which extend across every piece of mill-planed lum- 
ber. In mill-planing, a series of knives, two and some- 
times four, are caused to revolve very rapidly above or 
below the board, sometimes both above and below, as 
it passes through the planer, shown in Fig. 28. If the 

knives are properly 
set, revolve very 
rapidly, and the board 
is not made to travel 
over the planer bed 
too rapidly,- these 
marks are hardly 
noticeable. They must 
be removed with the 
hand plane, however, 
from any lumber that 
is to be used for in- 
terior finish or cabinet 
work. If they are not 
removed, the filler or 
stain will tend to 
"bring out" and em- 
phasize every hollow 
and thus give the wood an ugly, streaked appearance. 
Since it is difficult to tell where the smooth plane 
has or has not cut in removing these marks, it is a 
good plan to make a series of light pencil lines across 
the board at frequent space intervals before beginning 
to plane. When these have been removed the mill- 
marks will have been removed, too. 

In planing, press firmly on the knob in starting and 
upon the handle in stopping the stroke (Fig. 29), or 
the ends of the board will be lowered too much. If 
the board is a long one, it will be necessary to start 




Fig. 29— Starting the Plane and Finishing 
the Stroke 



SQUARING UP MILL-PLANED STOCK 



29 



and stop some of the strokes in its middle. That no 
marks may show where this takes place, the shavings 
must be "feathered." This is done by lowering the 
toe of the plane first in starting and by raising the heel 




Fig. 30 — Feathering- a Shaving 

of the plane gradually as the completion of the stroke 
is neared. This is shown in Fig. 30. 

A board will very often become warped or dished 
after having been planed level at the mill. The nature 
of the work in which it is to be used will determine 
whether or not this first surface is to be leveled or 
merely smoothed. If dished much, and the work 



30 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

require a level surface, a new piece or a thicker piece 
will be needed. In many cases the dish will "nail out" 
so that the first surface needs only smoothing. This is 
illustrated in Fig. 31, where a bottom board is being 




Fig. 31 — Nailing Out " Dished " Board 




Fig. 32 — Sighting for Straightness of Edge 



nailed to the side of a box. When this surface has 
been sufficiently smoothed, mark it for a face side. 

Planing First Edge 

Select and prepare one of the edges for a face edge. 
Place the piece against the bench stop or in the vise. 



SQUARING UP MILL-PLANED STOCK 



31 



The jointer is usually used for edge planing after the 
jack plane has been used to remove the roughness. 
After a few strokes, hold the board toward the light, 
close one eye and look along the edge (Fig. 32), to see 




Fig-. 33 — Using a Wood Straightedge 




Fig. 34— Try-Square on First Edge 

whether it is straight or not. Practice will soon enable 
one to know when the edge is straight. At first it 
may be well to use a straightedge test in addition to 
the sight test. This is done by placing something 
having a straight edge as shown in Fig. 33, holding 
the board and straightedge between the eye and the 
light so that any unevenness may show plainly. 



32 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



The second test is to place the try-square as in Fig. 

34. Hold the beam firmly against the face side and 

make the test at a sufficient 
number of places along the 
edge to show its true condi- 
tion. Should light show 
under the blade, note where 
it is, place the piece in the 
vise again and move the 
plane over to the side oppo- 
site that at which the light 
appeared, Fig. 35. Take off 
no more shavings in planing 
this edge than are absolutely 
necessary to get it straight 
and square. The final stroke 
should be taken the full 
length of the board and the 
shaving should be very thin. 

Mark this edge as in Fig. 27. It is to be known as the 

face edge. 




Fig. 35 — Taking Shaving at 
High Arris 



CHAPTER VII 

SQUARING UP MILL-PLANED STOCK 

(Continued) 

Gauging for Width 

HAVING planed and marked the face side and face 
edge, the next step is to mark the desired width. 
Figure 36 shows the tool used for this purpose and 
the manner of holding it while setting it. It is called 




Fig. 36— Holding and Setting Marking Gauge 

a marking gauge. Gauge sticks are marked off like 
a ruler into inches and fractions. These markings are 
so unreliable, however, that it is better not to depend 
upon them. Figure 37 shows the position of the gauge 
in action. The top of the spur is tipped forward so 



1 



34 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

as to make the cutting edge enter the wood at a slight 

angle while the tool is being pushed forward. The 

head of the gauge must be held against the face edge. 

Planing Second Edge 

The second edge is planed in a manner similar to 
that of the first. The gauge line limits the amount of 
wood that may be removed. Care must be taken, 
therefore, to test with the try-square as was done on 
the first edge while approaching the line, so that any 




Fig. 37— Gauging: for "Width 



irregularities may be corrected by the time the line 
is reached. 

The test for straightness such as was given the first 
edge is not necessary here, if the gauge line has been 
planed properly. The first edge being straight and 
the second one gauged therefrom, the second edge 
will be straight too if the gauging has been carefully 
done. If there is more than one-fourth of an inch of 




Fig. 38— End Planing 




\ II 

SHU 



Fig. 39 — End Testing 



35 



36 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

waste outside the gauge line, it should be ripped off, 
cutting parallel to the line and about -ft in. in the waste. 

Planing Second Surface 

Since stock that is S-2-S has the correct thickness, 
it is necessary in preparing this surface merely to 
remove the mill-marks, the smoothing plane being used 
as described in planing up the first board surface. 

Planing First End 

End planing differs from edge and surface planing 
in that there are no shavings, only sawdust, because 
the cutting takes place across the grain. Care must 
be taken in end planing not to sliver and break the 
arrises. This can be avoided by not planing entirely 
across the end. Plane about two-thirds of the way, 
then reverse and plane from the other direction (Fig. 
38). 

While the block plane is especially designed for 
doing end planing, any of the other planes may be 
used if a vise is at hand in which the piece of wood 
may be placed so as to allow both hands free for hold- 
ing the plane. 

The Tests — The first test for accuracy in end plan- 
ing is made by holding the beam of the try-square 
firmly against the face edge and lowering the blade 
until it rests upon the end of the piece of wood. By 
holding the piece up between the light and the eye, 
any unevenness will be visible (Fig. 39). The second 
test is similar to the first except that the beam of the 
try-square is held against the face side instead of the 
face edge. Continue planing until both tests show no 
light between the try-square blade and the end of 
the wood. 



SQUARING UP MILL-PLANED STOCK 



37 



Measuring the Length and Lining 
From the end just squared up measure and mark 
the length desired, Fig. 40. With try-square and knife, 




Fig. 40 — Measuring: Length 




Fig. 41 — Lining Across Face and Edge 



mark lines (Fig. 41) at this point across face side and 
face edge. If there is more than % in. of waste, saw 
it off, sawing about 7 \ in. outside and parallel to the 
line. 



38 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

Planing Second End 

The second end is to be planed to the lines just 
made. The two tests given the first end should be 
applied to the second end while approaching the lines, 
that the end may be square when the lines are reached. 

This completes the squaring up of stock mill-planed 
to correct thickness. 



CHAPTER VIII 



SQUARING UP ROUGH STOCK 

THE process of squaring up rough stock — stock 
which has not passed through the mill planer — 
is not so very unlike that for squaring up mill-planed 
stock. The main differences, however, are very 
important. 

Leveling or Truing the First Broad Surface 

Level up one of the broad surfaces for a face side, 
taking off as few shavings as possible. A level surface 




Fig. 42— Winding and a True Surface 

is one of which all points lie in the same plane. To 
level a surface, therefore, means to plane off the high 
places. Figure 42 shows a surface "in wind" or not 
level or true; also, a true surface. 

There are several ways of testing a surface to find 
whether it is true or not. An experienced mechanic 
would probably find the eye-sighting test sufficient 
This consists in closing one eye and sighting with the 
other along the length of the piece for straightness, 



40 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

Fig. 43. Another test is to sight across the piece to 
see whether the front arris and back arris line up, i. e., 
whether they lie in the same plane, Fig. 44. 

A beginner will find it advisable to use the following 
test in addition, until his eye has become trained in 
detecting inaccuracies. This test is used by mechanics 




Fig. 43 — Testing for Straightness 



when great accuracy is desired. It consists in testing 
for wind by means of winding sticks and in testing for 
straightness of length and width by means of a 
straightedge. Testing for a wind, Fig. 45, is made by 
placing two straight sticks, having parallel edges, 
across the piece near the* ends and sighting (with one 
eye) across their top arrises. If the surface is in wind, 



SQUARING UP ROUGH STOCK 



41 



the arrises will appear as in A, Fig. 46. If not in 
wind, the arrises of the sticks will appear parallel as 
in B, Fig. 46. The straightedge test for length is 




Fig. 44 — Testing for Twist 




Fig. 45 — Sighting for Winding of Surface 



similar to that for the edge, Fig. 33. In Fig. 47 is 
shown the straightedge test across the grain. 

A substitute for the winding-stick test, on pieces of 



42 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

some width — three or more inches — consists in plac- 
ing the straightedge along the two diagonals. The 
straightedge test for length and width must be given 
as usual, in addition to the diagonal test. These tests 
will show where and how much is to be planed and 
will need to be made frequently as the planing proceeds. 
If the piece is in wind, two diagonally opposite 
corners will appear high. Plane diagonally across the 
piece until these corners are roughly leveled. It may 
be that the middle is on a level with these corners and 
the other two corners are low with reference to the 
center of the board. In this case, the diagonal plan- 
ing will take the middle down as well as the two high 
corners. Finish by planing parallel to the grain, so 
as to leave a smooth surface. Put on the face mark. 

Planing the First Edge 

Straighten and square one of the edges for a face 
edge. This is done in the same way as for stock 
S-2-S, described in the preceding chapter. 

Gauging for Width and Planing Second Edge 

The directions for gauging to width are the same as 
those given in a preceding chapter, also planing for the 
second edge. 

Gauging to Thickness 

Since rough stock is variable in thickness, it will 
be necessary to set the marking gauge to the thick- 
ness wanted and mark sharp lines, one each on the 
two edges. Keep the head of the gauge against the 
face side in so doing. 

Planing and Testing Second Surface 

Since the face side was leveled and the thickness 
gauged from this, the second surface ought to be level 




Fig. 46 — Showing a Winding and a True Surface 




*1G 

Fig. 47 — Testing Across the Grain 



44 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

and true, if the planing is made to stop at the gauge 
lines on the two edges and if the middle of the board 
is neither high nor low with reference to these lines. 
To see whether the middle is high or low, place the 
straightedge across, as in Fig. 47, and test at a suf- 
ficient number of places to show the true condition. 
This test must be made frequently while approaching 
the lines, that the surface may be level when the lines 
are reached — at least not low in the middle, for there 
would be no remedy for that without decreasing the 
thickness below what is desired. 

Securing Length 
The directions for planing first end, measuring 
length and lining and planing second end will be 
found in preceding chapters under the same heads. 



CHAPTER IX 



WHETTING PLANE IRONS AND CHISELS 

PLANE irons and chisels are sharpened in pre- 
cisely the same manner, so that a description of 
sharpening only one — the plane iron — will be given. 
Release the plane iron and cap from the throat of the 
plane by lifting the cam on the cap. Separate the plane 




Fig. 48 — Taking the Irons Apart 



iron and cap iron — do not remove the cap screw, but 
slide the irons lengthwise until the screw head will 
pass through the opening made for it, as shown in Fig. 
48. Place a little oil on the stone and, holding the 
plane iron as shown in Fig. 49, proceed to whet the 
cutting edge. The iron must be held neither too high 
nor too low. If held too high, the edge will be blunted 

45 



46 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

and ruined, and a new edge must be ground on the 
grindstone. If held too low, the whetting takes place 
on the heel of the bevel and does no good, since it does 
not allow the stone to touch the edge of the iron. To 
tell when the tool is at the correct angle, draw the oil 
to one spot in the center of the stone. Place the iron 
with the bevel in the oil and the rear end down so the 
iron is flat, or nearly so, on the stone (Fig. 50). Gradu- 
ally raise the rear of the iron until the oil can be seen 




Fig. 49— Proper Pitch of Iron 



to spurt from under the cutting edge. The iron is 
then in position. Now move the iron either back and 
forth the full length of the stone or give it a circular 
motion, in either case striving not to change the angle 
at which it is held. 

After the whetting has been continued for some 
time, considerable pressure having been applied, and 
the test for position having been frequently made, a 
rubbing of the fingers down over the face side and out 




Fig. SO— First Position in Testing Angle 




Fig. 51 — Removing Wire Edge 



47 



4P WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

over the cutting edge will reveal a "wire edge." This 
must be removed before the iron is used again. To do 
this, hold the plane iron, face down, so that it touches 
the stone along its whole length, and give it a forward 
and downward movement on to the stone (Fig. 51). 
This generally bends the wire edge under and cuts it 




Fig. 52 — Testing for Sharpness 



off. Sometimes, however, it simply bends it back on 
the bevel. In this case the bevel must be whetted 
again slightly to bend the wire edge back on the face, 
when the above operation may be repeated. Some- 
times it takes several turnings to remove the wire edge. 
After the wire edge has been removed, the iron must 



WHETTING PLANE IRONS AND CHISELS 49 

be tested for sharpness. There are several ways of do- 
ing this. One way is to hold the iron up to the light ; 
if a white line appears, the edge is blunt and should 
be whetted more. 

Another way is to draw the edge of the iron along 
the thumbnail, feeling for friction. If the iron is sharp, 
it will cut the nail slightly and the resulting friction 
will be perceived by the worker. If the iron is dull, 
there will be no cutting and therefore no friction, in 
which case more whetting will be necessary. 

A mechanic generally uses the second method, but 
instead of the thumbnail he uses the ball of the thumb 
(Fig. 52). This is a more sensitive test and therefore 
more satisfactory. The ball of the thumb is calloused 
and if slight pressure is applied as the edge is drawn 
along the thumb, no harm need be done. When the 
edge is found satisfactory, put the plane iron and the 
cap iron together and place them in the throat of the 
plane. 



CHAPTER X 



GRINDING PLANE IRONS AND CHISELS 

WHEN plane irons have been whetted repeatedly, 
the end of the tool becomes so blunt that it will 
not do satisfactory work, and it cannot be made to do 
so by any amount of whetting, until the surplus metal 
at the heel of the bevel has been removed on a grind- 
stone. 

Figure 53 shows the manner of holding a chisel on 
the stone. The plane iron is held similarly. The tool 
should make an angle of about 20 to 25 deg. with the 
stone If the tool is to be used for cutting hard wood, 
it will need to be ground at about 20 deg. If it is to 
be used in cutting soft wood, it will take a longer bevel. 
The rule is : Keep the bevel as long as the temper of 
the tool and the nature of the wood to be cut will allow. 
The sharper the angle, the easier the tool cuts. It 
must not be so sharp as to become nicked or break in 
usage. 

Plenty of water should be kept flowing upon the 
stone, or the resulting friction will heat the steel and 
draw the temper, making the metal soft so that it will 
not stand up or hold an edge. Then, too, the water 
helps to keep the stone clean by washing off the par- 
ticles of steel which would clog up the pores of the 
stone. 

In freehand grinding, the stone should revolve 
toward the worker. It will cut faster and also help to 
prevent the forming of a wire edge. Try to keep the 
tool at a constant angle. Frequent changes of angle, 

50 



GRINDING PLANE IRONS AND CHISELS 



51 



intentional or not, will cause much extra labor and re- 
sult in either a poor job or a waste of good metal. 
Move the tool across the entire width of the stone so as 
not to form a hollow in the center of the stone. 

Grinding freehand is not so easy as it looks, and a 




Fig. 53 — Position in Grinding 



beginner may find it convenient to rig up a grinding 
device. He should, however, practice the freehand 
grinding until he masters it. With the rig now to be 
described, excellent results will be obtained with but 
little practice: The stone should be placed near a 



52 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

wall, preferably in a corner of the room. Unless the 
stone is to be kept true by means of a truing device, 
it will be safest to have it revolve from the tool. Cut 
a piece of oak or other hard wood, 1% in. square. 




Fig. 54 — Attachment Fastened to Wall 



Shape the ends as shown in Fig. 55. Fasten an angle 
iron at one end and in the other bore a hole and insert 
the metal holder. This holder or toggle bolt is simply 
one of the irons used by marble workers to fasten the 
marble slabs to the wall and can be bought at any 



GRINDING PLANE IRONS AND CHISELS 



53 



hardware store for a few cents. The common nut 
which ordinarily comes with it should be exchanged 
for a thumbnut, to facilitate rapid adjustment. 

The plane iron is fastened by slipping this holder 
through the slot in it, giving the holder a quarter turn 
and tightening the thumbnut. For chisels, a block of 




Plane Iron 



Fig. 55 — Detail of Grinding Attachment 

wood will be needed to place under one side of the 
holder to make it bear on the tool properly. 

The length of the wooden arm can only be deter- 
mined by trial, as the distance of the stone from the 
wall, the size of the stone, the position of the rest upon 
the wall, and the cutting angle desired, all are factors 
to be considered. 



CHAPTER XI 



MAKING A BIRD BOX 



NOW that the beginner has learned how to order, 
how to lay out and cut his stock and how to square 
it up, he may profitably begin the making of the six 
pieces which will be described hereafter. The projects 
are so arranged that each one introduces some new 




Fig. 57 — Bird House Complete 



wood-working process. By the time the six are com- 
pleted, the beginner will have had experience in the 
essential processes, such as boring, chiseling, etc., and 
in the making of the most important joints. Each pro- 
ject is more difficult than the preceding one, so that 



55 



56 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



the last will, if completed satisfactorily, indicate con- 
siderable skill and knowledge of the elementary prin- 
ciples of wood-working. 




Fig. 58 — Setting Angle of T-Bevel 

First, from the mechanical drawing of the bird house 
(Fig. 56), make out a stock bill in the form indicated 
in Chapter I. With this bill before you, lay out and 
cut the stock as directed in Chapters II and IV. Be- 
gin on the easiest pieces by 
squaring up the bottom or 
floor and the two roof boards 
shown in the perspective 
sketch, Fig. 57. Follow 
Chapters VI and VII or 
Chapter VIII, according as 
the stock is mill-planed or 
rough. 

The ends of the house 
may now be made. They 
should be squared up in the 
usual way except that only 
one end of each need be squared and no attention need 
be paid to the length, provided you are careful not to 
take off too much in squaring the first end of the board. 
These two house ends are alike in size ; they are dupli- 
cate parts so the beginner will need to know how me- 
chanics would handle them so as to save time. Make 




Fig. 59 




Fig-. 60 — Setting- Dividers 




Fig. 61 — Brace and Bit 



57 



58 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



the ends and sides even and, with light brads, nail 
the two parts together, nailing only in those parts that 
will not show the nail holes. The 45-deg. slopes are 
now to be laid out by means of the bevel-square or T- 
bevel. Figure 58 shows an easy way to set the bevel 
to 45 deg. Measure off on the edge of a straight board 




Fig. 62 — Boring a Hole 

any given distance, say 4 in. With the try-square, 
place a line across the board at one of these marks and 
measure from the edge of the board along this line an 
equal distance, 4 in., and adjust the blade of the level 
as shown. Lay off the slopes by marking along the 
bevel placed as in Fig. 59, and from the other edge. 
Saw a little outside of the lines, and plane to them ac- 
curately, testing with the try-square. 



MAKING A BIRD BOX 



59 



Separate the pieces and lay out the door and the 
centers of ventilating holes in the gables. A pair of 
dividers will be needed to lay out the door. Figure 60 
shows the manner of setting them. After the approx- 
imate setting has been secured, the thumbscrew is 
tightened and the thumbnut is used to set the points 
exactly. 

For boring the holes, there will be needed a brace 
and a 1-in. auger bit, Fig. 61. Braces are of two kinds, 
plain and ratchet. The latter has the advantage over 
the former in that it can be used in corners and up 
against a wall where only a partial turn is possible. 
Auger bits vary in size by sixteenths of an inch. The 
size of an auger bit is indicated by a number on the 
tang. If a single number, it is the 
numerator of a fraction whose de- 
nominator is sixteen. 

To insert the bit, hold the grip in 
the left hand and with the right re- 
volve the crank until the jaws are 
open wide enough to take in the en- 
tire tang of the bit. The jaws 
should clamp upon the shank. In- 
sert the bit and close the jaws by re- 
volving the crank in the reverse di- 
rection. 

To bore the holes, place the piece 
in the vise, Fig. 62, and bore until the spur appears 
on the reverse side. Reverse the position of the piece 
and, inserting the spur in the small hole just made, 
finish the boring. This method prevents any splitting 
of the arrises. The bit must be held perpendicular 
to the surface of the wood. Sight the whole brace 
and bit frequently from one direction, then from a po- 
sition at right angles to this, until the bit has entered 




Fig. 63 



60 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



well into the wood. A small coping or scroll saw may 
be used to finish the cutting of the door Saw right 
up to the line, keeping the saw cut or kerf on the 
waste wood. 




Fig 64 — Sandpapering 

Make the two sides of the house. These pieces are 
to be squared up in the usual manner, except that in 
obtaining the width, the bevel square is to be used for 
testing the angle instead of the try-square, Fig. 63. 
iBjl Test constantly while ap- 

proaching the line. If by acci- 
dent the line is overplaned, it 
will be necessary to put on new 
lines for width and to lay out 
anew and rework the length of 
the ends of the house to corre- 
spond 

The different pieces should 

now be sandpapered nice and 

Fig 67 clean. Sandpaper should not 

setting Nail b e depended upon to do the 

work of the edged tools. The edges and ends of the 

pieces which are to be placed against other pieces to 

make joints should not be sandpapered. A better joint 





Fig. 65 — Wire Gauge 




Fig. 66— Nailing 



62 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



is obtained by using the planed surface, since sand- 
papering has a tendency to round the edge. 

Fold the sandpaper sheet into at least four parts and 
make a block on which to place it. Make the block of 
such a size that the paper will not extend over the ends 
but will extend up the sides far enough to allow the 
fingers to grasp them firmly (Fig. 64). A good work- 
man sandpapers so as to keep the arrises sharp, unless 
it be on the arm of a chair, etc., where the sharp arris 
would injure the hand. 

We are now ready to assemble and nail the parts to- 
gether. There will be needed some nails, either com- 
mon or finishing. Common nails have flat heads ; fin- 
ishing nails have small round heads and are more 
suitable for fine work. Casing nails 
have small heads, but with slightly 
thicker bodies than the finishing. 
In ordering nails, specify the length 
in inches and the thickness accord- 
ing to the gauge of wire. Figure 
65 shows a wire gauge. It is the 
slot and not the circular opening 
that indicates the gauge. 

Place an end of the box in the 
vise, Fig. 66, and, standing so as 
to be able to sight along the lower 
piece, drive in the nails. Drive the 
nail almost in and finish with a nail- 
set (Fig. 67), so as not to mar the 
surface of the wood. Should the 
nail not enter properly, withdraw it 
(Fig. 68), and start it in another 
place nearby. Nail this side to the other end, then nail 
the other side in place. Put on the bottom or floor, 
then the roof boards. 




Fig. 68 
Drawing a Nail 



CHAPTER XII 



MAKING A TABORET 



REFERRING to the working drawing, Fig. 69, 
make out a stock bill of material needed. If pos- 
sible, use chestnut for this piece. It is easily worked, 
being soft wood, and takes a fine finish, owing to its 
open grain. 

The top and shelf are octagonal. To make them, 
square up the two pieces to size in the usual manner 
After this has been done so that the two pieces are of 
the same size as well as square, draw the diagonals, 
the lines of which extend from corner to corner across 
the board — or at least draw enough so that they shall 
cross and indicate the center of the boards. With the 
rule measure accurately from each of the four corners 
each way, along the edge and end, a distance equal to 
one-half a diagonal. Connect these points as shown 
in the top view of the working drawing. The eight 
sides should be of the same length. Saw off the cor- 
ners and plane to the lines. 

Square up the four legs to width, and if rough stock, 
to thickness. Since the top end is to be rounded, it is 
necessary to square only one end of each piece. Be- 
fore rounding the tops or shaping the sides of the legs, 
it is advisable to lay off and cut the dadoes, the grooves 
into which the shelves are to be fitted. To lay these 
out, place all four pieces on the bench side by side, 
face edges up, squared ends evened, and measure and 
mark with a knife point the locations of the sides of 
the dadoes. Separate the pieces, after having squared 

63 




5 






o \ o 
1 l f 

i 

o £" 


■> = N* -|tf 


- 


r~ 


T 


| 




= -i« 


t 

* gRAD. 




h 


1 




t 

IX) 







Fig. 69 — Details of Taboret 



64 



MAKING A TABORET 



65 



knife lines across the edges, and carry these knife lines 
across each of the face sides. Carry these lines across 
the second edges also. Set the gauge for the required 
depth and gauge between the knife lines on the two 
edges. 




The Taboret 



Before cutting the dadoes, it is well to be sure that 
none of them will be too wide. To do this, place the 
legs in the positions they are to occupy relative to one 
another in the finished piece, then mark with corre- 
sponding figures or letters the edges of the shelves and 



66 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

the dadoes into which they are to fit. Test each dado 
by super-imposing its shelf edge upon it. If the sur- 
face planing of the shelves was carefully done, all 
joints ought to answer the test. Should there be any 
variation, care should be taken to move only the lines 
representing the lower edges of the dado. In marking 
the corresponding members of a joint, Roman numer- 
als should be cut with a chisel in the edge of the shelf 
deep enough to be visible even after the stain and filler 
have been applied. The dado should be marked lightly 
with pencil until the groove is cut, after which the 
Roman numeral should be chiseled in the bottom of 
the dado. The finish of stain and filler should be ap- 
plied before the members are assembled. Time is 
saved and a better finish obtained by this method of 
procedure. 

The best way for the beginner to work the dado is 
as follows : Take a tenon saw, Fig. 70, and saw about 
1-16 in. inside and parallel to the lines that represent 
the sides of the dadoes. In using this saw, the cut 
may be begun on the arris near to or away from the 
worker. If it is begun on the near arris, the handle 
should be held lower than the point where the cutting 
is to begin and be raised gradually as the teeth pro- 
gress across the surface of the board. If the cut is 
begun on the far side, the handle should be held high 
in starting and be lowered gradually as the cutting 
proceeds. The saw blade should have the constant 
guidance of either thumb or forefinger of the left hand. 
The strokes should be short and easy at first. As the 
sawing proceeds gradually increase the number of 
teeth used, but continue the slow regular strokes. 
Saw only to the gauge lines, watching both edges 
while nearing the lines. 

Having sawed the sides of all the dadoes, the next 



MAKING A TABORET 



61 



step is to chisel to depth. Figure 71 shows the chisel 
used for paring - . Fasten the work so as to leave both 
hands free to hold the chisel. Both hands should at 
all times be kept back of the cutting edge or serious 




Fig. 70 — Sawing Dado 



Fig. 71 — Chisel 



accidents may occur. "Rough out" the waste mate- 
rial in the dado, cutting as much material at each 
stroke as may be removed by tapping the end of the 
chisel with the palm of the hand. On hard wood a 



68 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

mallet should be used. Incline the cutting edge of 
the chisel upward to allow for slanting grain in the 
wood, Fig. 72A. Rough out a little over half way 
across the dado, holding the bevel side of the chisel 
up. Next, hold the chisel as in Fig. 72R ; move the 
handle laterally, at the same time forcing the edge 
into the wood. This lateral movement is to give a 
shearing cut. Pare off very thin shavings while near- 
ing the gauge line at the bottom of the dado and on 
the final cut place the cutting edge exactly in the gauge 
line. Finish the second side by cutting in a similar 
manner. A block into which has been driven a nail 
to the proper depth will indicate whether the proper 
depth has been obtained or not, Fig. 73. 

The next step is to pare the sides of the dadoes. 
Hold the chisel as in Fig. 74, the left hand resting on 
the wood to hold it down and the fingers helping to 
guide the chisel edge. Only a very small part of the 
cutting edge of the chisel is used, the hardness of the 
wood and the strength of the worker determining how 
much. The chisel handle is inclined toward the worker 
at the start and is gradually worked forward vertically 
as the pressure is applied. It is very important that 
the worker stand so as to look along the line he is 
cutting, otherwise he cannot sight the chisel plumb. 
The sides of the dado will therefore not be perpendic- 
ular. The larger part of the blade, which is not used 
for cutting, is to be held against the perpendicular 
side of the dado already cut so as to aid in guiding 
the chisel. 

The sides of the legs and the top ends should now 
be worked to shape. Place the four legs on the bench, 
side by side, and even the squared ends by means of 
the try-square. Measure from the squared end of one 
of them 14 in. and at this point square a light pencil 




Fig. 72A — Removing: Waste Material 




?ig. 72B- Finishing with a Paring Cut 




Fig. 73 — Testing for Depth 



10 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

line across the edges of all. Separate the pieces and 
carry this line across the faces of each piece, using 
try-square and sharp pencil. This line gives the loca- 
tion of the points from which the arcs are drawn for 




Fig. 74 — Paring the Sides 




Fig 75 — Paring the Edges 



curved top and sides. The drawing shows the radii. 
An easy way to make the curves at the side of the leg 
is to place two pieces together edge to edge in the vise 
and bore a 1-in. hole, thus making an arc of ^-in. 



MAKING A TABORET 



11 



radius on each piece. Rip parallel to the straight 
lines and close to them and pare the edges as in Fig. 
75. The top curves may be finished by sawing par- 
allel to the line with the turning saw, Fig. 76, and 




Fig. 76 — Sawing the Curve 




Fig. 77 — Finishing with Spoke-Shave 



finished with a spoke-shave, Fig. 77. Either of these 
tools may be pushed or pulled, whichever is most con- 
venient. On a curve crossing the grain as does this, 
carpenters frequently use a plane instead of the spoke- 
shave. 

The parts of the taboret may be fastened together 



72 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



by means of round-headed screws. It will be neces- 
sary to locate by accurate measurement the places on 
the legs where holes are to be bored. Holes, some- 
what smaller, just large enough to receive the core of 
the screw, will need to be bored in the shelf edges. 
Their locations are to be determined by superimpos- 
ing the legs and marking through the holes already 
made in the legs. Screws, like nails, are designated 
by the number of wire gauge from which they are 




Fig. 78 




Fig. 79 — Countersunk Hole and a Countersink 

made and the length in inches. Figure 78 shows 
a wire gauge for screws. It must not be confused 
with the wire gauge for nails. The gauge is slipped 
over the screw just below the head. Flat-headed 
screws must have the holes countersunk. A counter- 
sunk hole and a countersink for making it are shown 
in Fig. 79. With a dark finish use blued screws ; with 
a light finish use brass screws. The screwdriver bit 
will be found helpful in putting in these screws (Fig. 



MAKING A TABORET 



IS 



80). The gimlet bit (Fig-. 80) will be needed for bor- 
ing the smaller holes. 

While it may be advisable to leave the surface plan- 
ing of the legs until the last thing before sandpapering, 



(CTi^ 



Screwdriver Bit 



Screwdriver 



Gimlet Bit 
Fig. 80 



staining and filling, it is absolutely necessary to have 



the surfaces of the shelves smoothed of their 
marks before the dadoes are cut and fitted. 



mill- 



CHAPTER XIII 

HOW TO MAKE AN UMBRELLA STAND 

THE umbrella stand (Fig. 81) and the other pieces 
that will be described hereafter are best made of 
quarter-sawed white oak. It should be purchased 
mill-planed to the desired thicknesses and should be 
well seasoned. Using the accompanying working 
drawing, Fig. 82, first make out a stock bill and then 
work the pieces to the sizes and shapes indicated. The 
back frame should be made first, then the bottom and 
front, next the sides, and finally the pegs. The gen- 
eral directions for laying out duplicate parts, as given 
for making the taboret, apply to the making of this 
stand as well as to all other projects. 

In the making of the back framework, a new joint — 
the cross-lap — has to be reckoned with. Proceed as 
follows: Having squared up the pieces of the back 
to their proper sizes, measure from their ends the dis- 
tance the nearer edge of the joint is to be and at this 
point square a sharp line across the edge. It is taken 
for granted that the pieces are to be worked in pairs. 
By superimposing one piece on the other, find and 
mark with the knife point the location of the other 
edge. At this point square sharp knife lines across, 
using try-square and knife. 

The pieces are to be so placed in the finished work 
that all the face sides shall be on the same side of the 
frame, therefore the cross lines will be on the face 
sides of half of the pieces, but across the back sides of 
the other pieces. It is well to lay the pieces in the 

74 



AN UMBRELLA STAND 



15 



positions they are to hold relative to one another in the 
finished piece and mark the corresponding parts of the 
joints as was indicated in the marking of the taboret. 
They may be marked temporarily with pencil marks, 
but as soon as the joints are cut and the parts fitted, 




Fig. 81 — Umbrella Stand 



chiseled Roman numerals should be made in the bot- 
toms of the grooves. 

The parts of the cross-lap joint are to be laid out and 
the bottoms chiseled as was the dado of the taboret. 
Lines are carried across the broad surface where the 
groove is to be made, and down the two edges. Gauge 
lines between these knife lines, on the edges, indicate 
the depth. The gauge should be set to one-half the 



HUfi' 




I 



q__6-i^43_ 6 i 



-2l + 



A 



o 



H 



-15* 



145- 



-194* 



Fig. 82 — Details of Stand 




Fig. 83 — Sawing on the Line 



76 



AN UMBRELLA STAND 



77 



thickness of the piece. The same setting will serve all 
the pieces, but it is of the utmost importance that the 
head of the gauge be held against the face sides only 
of the pieces. Beginners frequently think that because 
the groove is cut on the back side of some of the pieces, 
that the gauging must be done from the back side. 
If the pieces were all of the same thickness, and the 




Fig-. 84 — Correct Ways of Clamping 



gauge set exactly in the middle of that thickness, no 
harm would be done. This is very seldom the case. 
If the head of the gauge is held against the faces, no 
harm can be done, for should the groove be gauged too 
deep on one part, the other part will have the groove 
correspondingly shallow and the faces will be even 
and smooth after the parts are assembled. 

The sides of these grooves should be sawn exactly 
to the lines, the kerfs coming on the waste wood (Fig. 
83). 



78 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



The wood being hard, no 
more paring than is absolute- 
ly necessary to make the 
parts fit properly should be 
required. 

A good cross-lap joint is 
one in which the parts fit 
snugly, yet not so tightly as 
to spring the pieces out of 
line. Having fitted the 
parts, scrape the pieces and 
fasten the joints, using good 
hot glue and hand clamps. 
Figure 84 shows the cor- 
rect way of placing a hand 
clamp. Figure 85 illus- 
trates the manner of rotat- 
ing a hand clamp to open or 
close the jaws to the approx- 
imate setting. When the 
Fig. 86 — Giue Pot opening has been made, 

place the jaws, then tighten 
the shoulder spindle and after that the end spindle. 
In releasing a clamp, the end spindle must be released 
first. 

Hot glue is obtained by boiling chip glue in a 
double boiler, Fig. 86. In the outer boiler is water. 
The glue in the inner boiler is heated by the steam and 
hot water of this outer boiler. To prepare the glue, 
place the chips in the inner boiler and pour water over 
them so that they are just covered. Allow them to 
soak over night, then heat. Cabinet workers usually 
heat the wood too in cold weather, a warming oven of 
steam pipes being used. 

While the glue is hardening, the other parts may 





Fig. 85 — Rotating a Clamp 



^Wedge 



A 



Fig. 87 — Wedging the Pegs 



79 



80 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

be made. There is nothing requiring special instruc- 
tion except, perhaps, the design. The arrow is merely 
suggestive. The one end is made by boring a hole 




Fig. 88 — Cutting End Pieces without Waste 

through the slat. The shaft is cut with the ripsaw. 
The head is sawn with a coping saw or scroll saw. 

Plane the pegs up in one piece. They are to be 
"let in" to holes bored into the frame. Use glue and in 
addition wedge the peg tenons from the back, Fig. 87. 
By working the end pieces as in Fig. 88, lumber will 




Fig. 89 — Scraping 



be saved. Put the rest of the frame together by 
means of screws. 

A copper drip pan should be made for the bottom. 



AN UMBRELLA STAND 



81 



The copper need not be heavy since the tray is sup- 
ported on all sides. 

In this, as well as in making the pieces of furniture 




Fig. 90 — Filing a Scraper 





Fig. 91 — Whetting and Removing the Wire Edge 



to be described later, it will be necessary to have a 
cabinet scraper for smoothing the surfaces. The mill- 
marks should be removed as far as practicable with 



82 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

the smooth plane. The scraper is to follow and will 
be found necessary where the grain is curled or 
crossed. There are special forms of holders for the 
scraper steels, but they are not necessary. Figure 89 
shows a scraper in use. It may be either pushed or 
pulled. For a scraper to do good work, it must be 
sharp, be held at the correct cutting angle for the burr 




Fig. 92A — Flattening the Edge 




Fig. 92B — Turning the Edge 

formed and be bowed by pressing with the thumbs so 
as to make the middle of the cutting edge cut first and 
most. A shearing cut is best and the stroke should 
be along the grain so that the hard grain may support 
the soft spring growth of wood. 

When the scraper ceases to take off shavings, it 
should be sharpened. To do this, place the scraper 
in the vise and file the edge straight ; it may be slightly 
rounded from end to end, if desired, and square across. 



AN UMBRELLA STAND 83 

(See Fig". 90.) Then, by means of the oil stone remove 
the wire edges and leave the edge of the scraper with 
good square corners. (See Fig. 91.) Again place the 
steel in the vise and using a burnisher, a smooth piece 
of steel, draw up the arrises, as in Fig. 92-A. Now 
force the arrises down as in Fig. 92-B. The angle at 
which the scraper is to be held in cutting will depend 
upon the angle at which this burr is formed with ref- 
erence to the scraper's surface. It can be told only 
by trial. 






CHAPTER XIV 

MAKING A MAGAZINE STAND 

IN Fig. 93 is shown the perspective of a magazine 
stand which has been chosen to introduce three new 
kinds of fastenings or joints. Figure 94 gives the di- 
mensions and from them the stock bill is to be made 
out. In ordering, it may be advantageous to combine 
the lengths of the shelves and of the sides. It should 
be noted that the shelves, of %-in. stock, are slightly 
narrower than the sides. They might be made of the 
same width, but in the first construction any little va- 
riation in the location of the joints makes no noticeable 
difference. 

Square up the different pieces as indicated in the 
drawing, and shape their ends. The making of the 
joints comes next. Those on the shelf ends may be 
made first. 

Figure 95 shows the joint for the two middle shelves, 
the housed joint. Place the two shelves on the bench, 
face edges up, and square two knife lines across them 
— one at each end — so that the distance between the 
lines shall be 14 in. If the pieces were cut the correct 
length, this should leave % in. between each line and 
the end of the piece. Separate the pieces and with the 
knife and try-square, scribe knife lines entirely around 
each piece at each end. With the gauge set to %-in., 
gauge on the two broad surfaces and on the ends as in 
Fig. 96. With the backsaw, rip to the gauge lines and 
cross-cut to the knife lines, keeping the kerf on the 

84 




Fig. 93 — Magazine Stand 



86 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

waste wood. Saw to the lines accurately, so that no 
paring need be done. 

Now make the tenons on the upper and lower 
shelves. Place the shelves on the bench, face edges 
up and even the ends. Square knife lines across the 
edges, equidistant from each end, with a distance of 




Fig. 94 — Magazine Stand Details 



14 in. between. If there was trouble in making the 
two previous pieces so that their length had to be 
made shorter than what the drawing called for, of 
course the distance just specified must be shortened 
correspondingly. Separate the pieces and scribe lines 
entirely around each end corresponding to the 
knife lines just made on the face edges. Lay the rule 



MAKING A MAGAZINE STAND 



Si 



along this line, Fig. 97, and with the knife, point off 
spaces as indicated. Setting the gauge spur in the 
mark nearest the edge, gauge all the tenons on the two 
broad surfaces as far back as the knife lines just made 
and also across the ends. Reset the gauge to the other 
mark and repeat until all are marked. 

Before these tenons are worked or cut, the mortises 
for the keys should be laid out. From the knife line 
that represents the shoulder of the tenon, measure to- 




Fi£. 95 — Shelf Joints 



ward the end of the tenon -fa in. less than % in. The 
sides of the stand are % in. thick and this 52 in. less 
is to insure the pins pulling up tight against the sides 
of the stand. On the upper side of the shelf measure 
on toward the end from this line iV in. Square 
sharp pencil lines across the tenons at these points. 
Carry the first line entirely around the piece so that 
it will be across the under side of the board as well. 
Since the pins or keys have slant to make them wedge, 



88 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



the second line will ne'ed to be only % in. further out 
toward the end of the tenon. Lay the ruler along 
these lines as was done in Fig. 97 and mark off points 
to indicate the gauge settings for the sides of these 
mortises. Gauge both sides of the board, and knife 
the pencil lines between these gauge lines. This 
knifing is to make it easier to chisel the mortise ends 
accurately. The chisel can be set in knife lines but 




Fig, 96 — Gauging the Ends 

not in pencil lines. A little thought will make it 
clear why the knife was not used at the first lining. 

Work the tenons and mortises for the keys. Rip 
with the backsaw to the lines, keeping the kerf in the 
waste, then cross-cut the exterior shoulders. To cut 
the inclosed shoulder it will be necessary to bore a 
hole, and then, using a key-hole saw, cut parallel and 
very near to the line. The remaining part may be 
pared away with the chisel, working from both sides. 
The ends of the tenons are to be chamfered slightly. 



MAKING A MAGAZINE STAND 89 

To work the mortises, bore a hole, and then, working 
from this hole, pare out to the lines. Bore from the 
smaller opening, the lower side of the shelf. 

Everything is now ready for working the corre- 
sponding openings or mortises in the two sides of the 
stand. Lay the two sides on the bench with the face 
edges up, and even the ends. Measure off and square 
knife lines across the edges at the places where the 
mortises are to be made. If the shelves are of uniform 
thickness, both sides of the mortises may be laid off 




Fig. 97 — Marking Spaces 

by measurement. If not, it will be safer to lay off 
only the lower lines now and locate the upper lines 
by superposition. Separate the pieces and square the 
lines across the face sides, that is, the inner sides. 
Determine now and mark the way the parts are to 
rest in the final assembling. By laying the tenons on 
the corresponding cross lines for the mortises, locate 
the points from which the gauge settings are to be 
taken, Fig. 98. For the mortises of the upper and 
lower shelves, bore in each a series of holes close 
enough to one another to make one connected open- 



90 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

ing. Use as large a bit as the mortise will allow 
safely. With the chisel, work from the hole toward 
the lines as was done in making the mortises for the 
keys. In working the mortises into which the ends of 
the middle shelves are to be housed it will be neces- 
sary to chisel lines parallel to the given lines, about 




Fig:. 98 — Marking Mortises 



iV in. in the waste, then work the mortise to depth. 
After this, the sides may be pared to the knife lines 
without danger of making the mortises too wide. In 
roughing out the bottoms, the chisel is to be held 
bevel side down. When nearly to depth, a router 
(Fig. 99) may be used. 
The keys or wedges may be made in a variety of 



MAKING A MAGAZINE STAND 91 

shapes. The essential thing is to so design them that 
they will fit properly and not be likely to break. This 
matter of proper fitting is the only thing that neces- 
sitates definite measurements. Square up the keys 
to length, having first made a face edge and obtained 
the proper thickness. Midway between the ends, 
square two lines across the face side a distance apart 
equal to the thickness of a shelf, or % in. Along one 
of these lines, AB, Fig. 98, measure from the face edge 



Fig. 99 — Router 

T 7 6 in. Along the lower, CD, Fig. 98, measure % in. 
The outline of the remaining unworked edge of the 
key, whatever its shape, must pass through these two 
points. 

The two braces which are to be placed under the 
lower shelf are to have their ends doweled into the 
sides. Use a dowel % in. in diameter. Dowels can 
be purchased put up in bundles, each stick about a 
yard in length. Cut each pin about l 1 /^ in. long. 
Slightly round the arrises and with the tenon saw or 
backsaw, saw a shallow slot the full length of the pin. 
This is to allow any surplus glue in the bottom of the 



92 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

hole to escape when pressure is applied to force the 
dowel in. If the dowel were to fit snugly and the 
glue not allowed to escape when the pin is pounded 
in, the board might be split by the pressure of the 
glue. The most important thing in making a dowel 




DOWEL POINTED AND 
WITH £AW KERF TO ALLOW 

^ g ; rTn| —-^ SURPLUS GLUE 

feWC,y»IJgO TO ESCAPE 



"-^U 



Fig. 100 — Marking Holes for Dowels 

joint is to get the holes laid out and bored in exactly 
corresponding positions. The centers for the holes 
may be laid out by measurement ; but as easy a way — ■ 
one that insures greater accuracy — is to drive two 
small brads into one of the members where the cen- 
ters are to be, and snip off the heads so that the nails 
project about tV in- (Fig- 100.) Place the member 
against the other in its exact position and press these 
brads into the side of the other member. Remove the 
piece and the brads, using pincers for the latter, and 
then carefully bore the holes to depth. With a stick 
or a small brush, place glue on the sides of the holes 
that are in the ends of the brace, and insert the dowels. 
The stand is now ready to be assembled. 



CHAPTER XV 



MAKING A TABLE 



IN Fig. 101 is shown the perspective of a table which 
contains a glue joint, closed mortise-and-tenon, 
and a pinned mortise-and-tenon joint. By means of 
the working drawing, Fig. 102, make out a stock bill 
and order the necessary lumber. The lumber for the 
top is to be cut in several pieces. 




Fie. 101 — The Table 



The top may be built up first and the glue allowed 
to dry while the other parts are being made. If the 
boards are rough, one side should be planed up for a 
face side. Before jointing the edges, take a look at the 
ends of the pieces as well as the surfaces. Lay out 



94 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

the pieces the way they are to be fitted to one another 
and mark them so that this order can be maintained 
hereafter. The annual rings should be fitted as in 




Figf. 102 — Table Details 



Fig. 103. If this is done, any warpage in one piece 
will tend to equalize that of its neighbor so that the 
general surface of the top will be level. Again, so 
plan the fitted parts that the surface grain may all run 




MAKING A TABLE 95 

in the same direction. If this is not done, it will not 
be possible to plane the surfaces over the joints with- 
out roughing up the wood from one direction or the 
other. 

Place two pieces in the vise (Fig. 104), face sides 
together, and plane the 
edges until you think they 
are straight and level, no 
try-square test is necessary. 
Use a jointer and make sure 

, i 1 1 ' • j Fig. 103 

the plane iron is ground 
straight across. 

Separate the pieces and, keeping one in the vise, 
set the other on this, both face sides on the same side 
of the work. Look at the joint to see whether any 
light can be seen through it. Also slide the top board 
endwise to feel for suction. Tap the lower board 
lightly to see if the upper will rock. Finally test as 
shown in Fig. 105 to see whether the face sides lie in 
the same plane or not. Plane until you get a good 
joint, for a poor glue joint is no joint at all. 

When a surface of contact has been obtained that 
extends the whole length of the edges, and the face 
sides lie in the same plane, the clamps are to be gotten 
ready and the glue heated preparatory to gluing the 
joints. Figure 106 shows the manner of applying 
the glue to the edges. Figure 107 shows the boards 
in the clamps. Before applying the glue, have every- 
thing in readiness, the wood warmed, if possible, so 
that it will not chill the glue, in order that no time 
may be lost between applying the glue and the clamp- 
ing. 

When the glue has hardened, which usually takes 
24 hours, the clamps are to be removed and the pieces 
surfaced and treated as one. Sometimes dowels are 



96 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

used between glue joints. Many mill-men, however, 
do not consider them necessary. 

The mortises and their tenons may be made next. 
The tenons on the upper stretchers are to be 1 in. 
long, so that the full length of each piece will be 27y 2 
in. They are to be shouldered on three sides. Ten- 
ons may be shouldered on one, two, three or four 
sides. The reason for shouldering these on three 
sides and making one of these shoulders so large is 




Fig. 104 — Clamping Boards' Face Sides Together 



to prevent any danger of splitting out the ends of the 
legs. 

The important thing in laying out mortises and 
tenons is to keep the head of the gauge always against 
the face side or the face edge and to make as much 
use of the tool you hold in your hand as is possible 
before laying it down to take up another. As an 
illustration, the tenons of the upper stretchers are % 
in. thick. This leaves % in. on either side. The am- 
ateur always wants to gauge both of these sides with 
the same setting of the gauge, % in. This is con- 
trary to trade practice, for, while it saves resetting 
the gauge, it makes the thickness of the tenons de- 



MAKING A TABLE 



97 



pendent upon the thickness of the stock. The correct 
way is to set the gauge to % in. and gauge all the 
tenons for this setting, holding the head of the gauge 
against the face side, then reset to % in., plus the 
thickness of the tenon, V2 in., which makes % in. 
Again hold the head of the gauge against the face 
side. In this way all the tenons will be % m - thick, 
no matter how much the pieces may vary in thickness. 
This same principle applies to gauging the mortises. 




Fig. 105 — Testing for Flat Surface 



In laying off the shoulders and tenon lengths, place 
the pieces in the vise or clamp them together on the 
bench with the face edges up. The faqe edge of the 
upper stretchers is to be the lower edge of the piece 
and on the lower stretchers, the upper edge. Meas- 
ure from the centers of the stretchers toward the ends 
one-half the distance called for. Measure on out to- 
ward the ends from these lines the length of the tenon. 
Mark these places with a knife and with try-square 
place knife lines across the edges of all the pieces. 
Separate the pieces and with knife and try-square 
carry these lines entirely around the pieces, observing 



98 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

the rule about keeping the beam of the try-square 
against only the face side or face edge. 

Observing the cautions given above, gauge the 
pieces on the surfaces and edges as far back as the 
shoulder lines just made and across the ends. 

Using the tenon saw or backsaw, first rip carefully 
to the gauge lines, keeping the kerf on the waste but 
leaving no wood between it and the line. Second, 
crosscut to the knife lines that indicate the shoulders, 
Fig. 108. 




Fig. 106 — Applying Glue to the Edges 



The mortises are to be made next. Place the legs 
on the bench, face sides up, and measure off the loca- 
tions of the ends of the mortises. The face sides are 
to be turned in and the mortises are to be worked in 
them, because they are more likely to be accurate 
than are the other sides, the shoulders are more 
likely to fit up snugly against them. Separate the 
legs and carry the lower lines entirely around. It 
will be well to use a sharp pointed lead pencil in 
marking around the legs for the lower mortises. 



MAKING A TABLE 



99 



These mortises extend entirely through the legs so 
that the lines have to be carried all around the legs 
and were knife lines used, they would show badly on 




Fig. 107 — Boards in Clamps 

the finished piece. Keeping the gauge head against 
the faces, gauge the sides of the mortises. Gauge all 
the mortises first at % m -> then at 1% in. The ends 
of the mortises which were penciled may now be 
knifed between the gauge lines to facilitate setting 
the chisel. Use the try-square with the knife. 



Mortise 




Tenon 



Fig:. 108 — Tenon and Mortise Joint 



In laying off for gauge settings, instead of meas- 
uring directly for them, the rule is placed as in Fig. 
97 of Chapter XIV. The measuring is done from the 



100 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

center of the piece each way. Afterward, the spur 
is set in these knife-point marks and the head pushed 
up against the face and the screw set. 

There are two ways of cutting a mortise that are 
common. One way, which is especially advanta- 
geous in large mortises, is to bore a series of con- 
nected holes very nearly the entire length of the 
mortise. If the mortise is closed, as are the upper 
mortises in the legs of this table, the holes must be of 
uniform depth and correct. Figure 109 shows a sim- 
ple device for obtaining uniform and correct depth. 
The block is to be sawed off to the length required by 
the depth of the mortise and the length of the bit. 
This can be determined by turning in the spur until 
the lips are ready to cut, then measuring the length of 
the bit up to the jaw. Subtract from this the depth of 
the hole and the length of the block is known. Be- 
ginning at the center, pare off thin slices of wood until 
the gauge and knife lines are reached. The sides of 
the mortise must be cut down plumb or the tenon 
cannot fit. In the through tenon and mortise the 
holes must be bored from each side of the leg and 
likewise chiseled. 

The second method consists in only chiseling the 
mortise. Use a chisel that is the same width as that 
of the mortise. Stand so as to be able to look along 
the length of the mortise and cut out a V-shaped open- 
ing the depth of the mortise, Fig. 110. If the mortise 
is to extend through, cut a little over half way. Next, 
begin in the center and, with the bevel side of the 
chisel toward you, take vertical cuts and work grad- 
ually toward the other or far end. Cut the full depth 
of the mortise each time and pull the chisel toward 
you after each cut before removing it to break the 
waste from the sides of the mortise. Cut to within 



MAKING A TABLE 101 

% in. of the end and then reverse the piece and cut out 
toward the second end. Pry out the chips occasion- 
ally. Finally finish the two ends out to the knife line 
but do not pry on them after these cuts. If the mor- 
tise is a through one, cut one side of the leg then re- 
verse and cut from the second side, being careful 
that the cutting from the second side shall be plumb. 
Otherwise there will be danger of the chisel Splinter- 




Fig. 109 — Depth Gauge 

ing the arrises of the first side. Never allow the 
chisel edge to be forced beyond two-thirds of the way 
through. 

There remains the boring of the holes for the pins. 
Lay these out very carefully on the legs with rule, 
try-square and gauge. Instead of inserting the ten- 
ons and boring both mortise sides and tenons at once, 
lay out the holes on the tenons separately, very care- 
fully. Use the same measurements as for the 
mortises, except that the center is to be drawn toward 
the shoulders about ^2 in., strong. This is to insure 
the pins pulling the shoulders up snugly to the leg 
and is called draw-boring. Too much draw-bore 
would split the tenon, therefore care must be taken 
to have everything just right. 



102 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

Use %-in. doweling for pins. Cut them off longer 
than the leg is wide and point the end so that it can 
find the way through without splitting off the arrises 




Fig. 110 — Cutting a Mortise 

of the hole at the far side. Use glue and clamps on 
the upper joints. 

The top is to be fastened from the under side of the 
top stretchers by means of screws. 



CHAPTER XVI 
MAKING A CABINET 

IN Fig. Ill is shown the perspective drawing of a 
cabinet that embodies in its construction the 
elementary principles of cabinet construction. This 



Fig. Ill— The Cabinet 

cabinet is intended primarily for holding music, 
either sheet or roll, but it will serve as a curio case 
equally well. Figure 112 gives the necessary dimen- 
sions for the case. 

103 



104 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



Square up the two sides and shape the ends. Square 
up the three shelves and work the tenons. The mor- 
tises in the sides may then be laid out and worked. 
These joints > including the dadoes of the stationary 
shelf next the top shelf, are laid out and worked in a 
manner similar to those joints in the magazine stand 
of Chapter XIV, the key and its mortise omitted of 
course The two shelves of %-in. stock shown in 
Fig. 112 are to be movable and to be worked later. 




Fig 112— Cabinet Details 



The back of the cabinet is to be a paneled frame 
and is to be set into the sides of the cabinet one-half 
their thickness. The sides of the cabinet will, there- 
fore, have to be rabbeted accordingly. A rabbet or 
rebate is a rectangular recess cut along the edge of a 
board. Figure 113 shows the rabbeted side of the 
cabinet. Rabbeting may be done with a chisel, the 
sides of the rabbet being first gauged deeply with the 



MAKING A CABINET 105 

marking gauge. The manner of loosening up or scor- 
ing the waste of the rabbet preparatory to paring the 
sides with the chisel is shown. If the rabbet does 
not run full length as in Fig. 113, the chisel and gauge 
must be used. The rest of the rabbet can be worked 
more advantageously, however, by means of a combi- 
nation plane, shown in Fig. 22, Chapter V. This plane 
has a guide or fence which can be adjusted so as to 
hold the cutter on the board at the proper distance 
from the edge. It also has a stop which can be set 




Fig. 113— Cutting a Rabbet 



and thus cause the cutter to cease cutting when the 
desired depth has been reached. With these guides, 
no gauge line is necessary. In a rabbet like this one, 
the practical cabinet-maker would hardly take time to 
make a stopped rabbet, but would rabbet the full length 
of the side with the plane. Of course the lower part 
of the rabbet will not be filled by the panel but it will 
not be visible from the front. 

Directions for Making Panel 

The top backing of 1-in. stock may next be shaped 
after which the back paneling is to be made. The stiles 
and rails of this paneling are to be made of %-in. stock. 



106 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

The panel proper is to be of iVin. stock. Figure 114 
shows the detail. This is what is known as a flush 
panel, the panel being rabbeted on one side so that 
that side shall be flush or even with the frame. In 
making this panel, get out the stock for the rails and 
stiles about % in. wider than the drawing calls for and 
somewhat longer. This is to make it possible to plane 
and fit the frame in place. In ripping their width, take 
pains to get them all to a uniform excess over the 






L 



Panel 



*Kr«* 



Rail 



-25- 




Section at A-B 
Pigf. 114 —Detail of Door 



width called for. Work a face edge on each piece and 
plow a groove the full length of each as indicated in the 
cross-section of Fig. 114. Use the combination plane, 
adjusting it suitably. Lay off on the two rails the 
proper distance between the shoulders, and, using these 
as shoulder lines, lay out tenons that shall fit the 
grooves just made as mortises. Cut these tenons. 
Work the panel to size and rabbet the edges as called 
for by the drawing. If the lumber is well seasoned, it 



MAKING A CABINET 107 

will be necessary to make the panel slightly smaller 
in width than the dimensions given, to allow for swell- 
ing. Nothing need be allowed in length, for wood does 
not shrink appreciably along the grain. Get the bar 
clamps ready, mark the proposed location of the rails 
on the stiles, so that no time need be lost after the glue 
is applied, then glue the tenons and assemble the panel 
with its frame. Do not place any glue on the panel 
edge, unless it be a slight touch at either end in the 
middle. The panel must be free to move in the groove 




Fig. US — Shouldered Tenon Joint 

with the swelling or shrinkage, or it will split. The 
touch at the center of the ends is to hold the panel 
centering as it swells or shrinks. Place the clamps 
over the rails and adjust the blocks so that the pressure 
leaves the surface of the panel and frame level and out 
of wind. Test the panel with straightedge crosswise 
and diagonally, or sight across it with the eye. 

This is a common way of making the frame for a 
panel and answers very well where the four sides of 
the frame are to be supported as in this case. On a 
door, however, stub tenons using the grooves as 
mortises would not be strong enough. In this case, a 



108 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

deeper mortise and a longer tenon would be necessary. 
To make it possible to plow the full length of the rails 
and stiles, the tenon is shouldered as in Fig. 115. This 
is what is known as a haunched tenon-and-mortise. 
Mortise and tenon are made first and the grooves 
plowed afterward, the tenon and mortise being given 
the same thickness and location as the groove. 

Doweling Front Brace 

Shape the lower edge of the front brace, square the 
ends, then dowel them. After this, the surfaces of the 




Fig. 116 — Shouldered Tenon Joint for Glass Panel 

parts already worked may be smoothed and these parts 
put together. The tenons of the horizontals and the 
doweled ends of the front brace are to be glued with 
good hot glue, but the entire backing should be fastened 
with screws. 

Directions for Making Door 

There remains to be made the drawer, door and 
shelving. The door may be made with a wood panel, 
in which case it will be worked by methods similar to 
those used on the back panel. It will not be necessary 
to use a flush panel. Use one with a thickness equal 



MAKING A CABINET 109 

to the width of the grooves. The haunched tenon-and- 
mortise should be used. If an art glass panel is to be 
used, as shown in the perspective drawing, it will be 
necessary to work the joints at the corners of the frame 
a little differently. Saw out the stiles and rails, as in 
the back panel, making them somewhat wider and 
longer than the dimensions of the drawing, but of uni- 
form excesses. Plane face edges and lay out mortises 
and tenons on them as in Fig. 116 — tenons on the rails 
and mortises on the stiles. The size and location of 
these will depend upon the rabbet or recess that is to 
be made to receive the glass. 

It will be noticed that one shoulder of the tenon is 
worked enough longer than the other that it may 
extend to the bottom of the rabbet. This makes it 
possible to rabbet the full length of both stile and 
rail with the plane. Work the joints and then rabbet 
the edges. Glue the tenons and mortises and clamp 
the frame, sighting for wind and adjusting the clamp- 
ing blocks so as to leave the door square and true. 

Directions for Making Drawer 

While the glue on the door is hardening, the drawer 
may be made. Figure 117 shows two styles of drawers. 
The first is easier to make but the second, the one 
with dovetail joints, is better and is the style used on 
fine cabinet work. Drawer fronts are usually thicker 
than the rest of the drawer stock. While the front is 
always of the same kind of material as the rest of the 
cabinet, the sides, back and bottom are usually of 
some close-grained wood such as yellow poplar. To 
make either style of drawer, get out the requisite num- 
ber of pieces of the thicknesses necessary. Square 
them to size. The length of the drawer should be T 3 6 
in. less than the place in which it is to slide. This is 



110 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

to allow for swelling. The drawer front, however, may 
be squared up to a length equal to that of the opening, 
allowing its ends to project beyond the sides of the 
drawer. This will allow fitting the front without hav- 
ing to plane the sides of the drawer. Plow the grooves 





Fig. 117 — Two Styles of Drawers 



in which the bottom is to rest in the front and sides, 
also in the back of the dovetailed type. Lay out and 
cut the dadoes in the sides, into which the back is to be 
placed in the ordinary type, then the rabbeted corners 
on the drawer front. In this type the back of the 
drawer rests upon the drawer bottom. In the dovetail 



MAKING A CABINET 



111 



type, the back of the drawer is the same width as the 
front. The dovetails are to be laid out and worked. 
The dovetail at the front is known as a half-blind dove- 
tail and that at the back as a multiple plain dovetail. 
Of course the half-blind dovetail might be used at the 
front with the dado construction at the back as in the 
first type of drawer. It is very important to follow 
the rule about placing the faces, face sides being turned 
in so as to make the members of the joints fit face to 
face. 




Fig 118 — Dovetail Joint 



Directions for Making Dovetail Joints 

There are no new principles in the layout or working 
of the corner joints of the ordinary type of drawer. 
The making of the dovetail joints for the cabinet 
drawers, however, will require specific directions. The 
tails, Fig. 118, are to be made on the drawer sides and 
the pins or tenons on the drawer back. Locate the 
shoulder lines on the back and front and on the sides 
at the same time, and square knife lines around in the 



112 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

usual manner. On the ends of the back and front lay- 
off center lines for the tenons, Fig. 119. Set the bevel 
square to a slope of % in. in 3 in. and lay off the' flares 
across the ends. The greatest flare must be at the face 
side. Carry these lines down the two broad surfaces of 
the drawer, back as far as the shoulder lines. On the 
drawer front carry them on the face side only. 

Set a gauge to a distance equal to that wanted for 



*-5"— 







Fig. 119 — Front Board Mortise 



the length of the tails on the forward ends of the 
drawer sides or ends, and gauge across both ends of the 
drawer front, the head of the gauge being held against 
the face side. With fine cutting tenon or back saw, 
saw the tenons, keeping the kerf on the waste, of course. 
With a chisel, and working from both sides, cut the 
shoulders. Figure 120 shows the manner of sawing 
and chiseling the blind dovetails. 



MAKING A CABINET 



113 



To make the tails place the tenons upon the drawer 
sides so that the face side is on the knife line indicating 
the shoulders and mark the sides as in Fig. 121. With 




Fig. 120 — Sawing the Mortises 




Fig. 121 — Marking the Tails 



try-square and bevel square complete the layout on 
the ends and far side. Saw the sides, then chisel the 
shoulders, chiseling from both sides. 




Fig. 122 A — Marking Gains 





0W\\\ 




^=5=H^_ 




Pi 






1 

o I 

s 



Fig. 122B — Finding Depth of Gain 




Fig. 122C — Gauged from Face Side 



114 



MAKING A CABINET 



115 



If the parts have been carefully made, it ought to be 
possible to fit them together with but little trimming. 
Fit them together dry, bottom and all, to see that all is 
ready, then glue and clamp. As in the panel, put no 
glue on the bottom unless a little at the center of the 
ends. In fitting the bottom, should it prove thicker 
than the groove, plane the under side of the drawer 
bottom at the ends. After the glue has set, the joints 
may be smoothed up and the drawer fitted to its run- 




Fig. 122D — Setting Gauge for Depth 



way. The pull should be placed, but should be taken 
off during the application of the finish. 

The door of the cabinet is to be fitted and hung while 
the glue is setting on the drawer joints. Plane one 
edge and the top of the door until they fit the frame of 
the cabinet. Secure the width of the opening, top and 
bottom, and transfer it to the door and connect these 
marks with a straightedge. Plane to the line, testing 
occasionally by holding the door against the frame to 
make sure any irregularities are provided for. That the 
door may open easily, it should have a little play and 
the back arrises should be lowered slightly in planing 



116 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

the edges. Secure the length on each side of the door 
and plane up the remaining end accordingly. No stop 
will be necessary except at the top of the door, against 
which the door can bump, the shelf supports acting as 
stops. 

In hinging the door, place the lower hinge just above 
the lower rail and the upper hinge just below the upper 
rail. Place the door against the stops and slip some- 
thing under it — a chisel or knife will do — to hold it in 
place, then mark on both door and jamb simultaneously 
the knife marks for the location of the upper edge of the 
top hinge and the lower edge of the lower hinge. Take 
down the door and, holding the hinge as in Fig. 122A, 
mark the length of the gains. Do this on both door and 
jamb, making sure to have the two correspond. Set a 
gauge for the width of the chiseled gain into which the 
hinge leaf is to enter (Fig. 122B). This distance is to 
be determined by the thickness of the door and the 
amount the knuckle is to project. In this case, let the 
line be gauged within % in. of the arris, gauging from 
the face side of course (Fig. 122C). Next set a gauge 
for the depth the hinge is to be sunk (Fig. 122D). With 
these settings gauge both door and jamb. In gauging 
the jambs for the width of gain, it frequently happens 
that the stops interfere. This can be remedied by hav- 
ing one gauge with its end sawed off very close to the 
spur. In this cabinet the stops might have been left off 
until after placing the hinges. 

If loose pin butt hinges are to be used, separate the 
parts and attach one to the door and its remaining leaf 
to the jamb. If the hinge is what is known as a plain 
butt, they will have to be attached to either door or 
jamb and the door held up while the remaining leaves 
are fastened to the corresponding gains. Put only 
one or two screws in each leaf until the door has been 



MAKING A CABJNET 111 

put in place and tested. Even with expert mechanics 
it is necessary to make a trial test. If the hinges 
bind, that is, if the door cannot be shut without 
springing the hinges, remove the door and the leaf of 
the hinge that causes trouble on either jamb or door 
and insert a piece of cardboard or heavy paper the 
full length of the hinge and again test. If the hinge 
in the first test fails to draw the door up against the 
jamb, it will be necessary to remove the hinge and 
chisel the gain deeper. Allow a little play for the 
wood finish, as this will add some thickness and a 
little additional allowance must be made for swelling, 
the amount depending upon the size of the door — in 
this case not more than T V in. on lock side and top 
and bottom. Fit the hinge side up practically tight, 
without forcing. The gains are to be scored and 
chiseled according to processes 
previously learned. A compar- 
atively new style of hinge is 
shown in Fig. 123. It is easily 
applied. One leaf is gained 
into the jamb, the door is then 
placed and the other or sur- 
face leaf is screwed to the door lg " 123 
while the door is in this, position. 

Directions for Placing Lock 

After hinging comes the locking. Figure 124 shows 
a common form of cabinet lock. The lock is attached 
by first locating a hole for the key and knob at a point 
somewhat above the center. Hold the lock against 
the stile and mark through the box and press the key 
pin against the stile. The lock is to be let into the 
stile so that the holes will need to be bored back from 
the edge of the stile far enough to allow the selvage 




118 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 



to rest slightly below the surface of the edge of the 
stile about -^ in. This is to allow for planing the 
door, should future unlooked for swelling necessitate. 
Again place the lock against the stile and mark off 
the length of the gain for the selvage. Gauge for the 





Escutcheon 



Selvage 

Fig. 124— A Cabinet Lock 

depth and width of the selvage and chisel, after scor- 
ing, in the usual manner. Next chisel just enough to 
let in the box of the lock and the face. Place the 
screws. Swing the door in place and turn out the 
bolt and mark its vertical position on the edge of the 
jamb. Square these lines back on the jamb and after 
securing the horizontal measurement from the door, 
transfer it to the jamb and mark the near side of the 
small mortise which is to hold the 
bolt when the door is locked. Place 
the strike and knife around it and 
then chisel the mortise carefully. 
Screw the strike fast and chisel out 
enough to let the bolt enter it. 
Fi e 125 Figure 125 shows a drawer pull. 

The manner of setting it is easily seen. 




MAKING A CABINET 



119 



Directions for Shelving 

The shelving is to be made next. While the draw- 
ing shows but two shelves, there may be any number 
desired. There are various ways of holding movable 
shelving in use among cabinet workers. The simplest 
is a metal fixture so made that it slips into one of a 




Clea-t 



5betf End 



Fig. 126 — Shelving Details 



series of holes bored in the sides of the cabinet at 
each of the four corners. These holes are uniformly 
spaced and allow the shelves to be placed in many 
different spacings. Small dowels would answer the 
same purpose. Figure 126 illustrates another and 
more substantial method. For this, square up two 
pieces of % or %-in. stock to a width of 1% in. Gauge 
a line down the middle and lay off on this holes 1% in. 



120 WOOD-WORKING FOR AMATEUR CRAFTSMEN 

apart, beginning about 2 or 3 in. from the bottom. 
Bore %-in. holes at these centers and rip along the 
gauge line. Plane off the saw marks, saw the pieces 
to length and nail them one in each corner of the 
cabinet. Make twice as many cleats as there are to 
be shelves, rounding the ends after having determined 
the length by measuring the cabinet. The width of 
these cleats will need to be % in. and the thickness 
the same as the corner supports. These cleats can 




Fig. 127 — Setting the Glass 



be placed in any desired location. Square up the 
shelves and with try-square, gauge and saw lay out 
and notch the ends so that their ends will rest upon 
the cleats. 

Directions for Setting Glass 

There remains the making of the fillet which is to 
hold the ornamental glass in the frame of the door. 
This may be made square. Make it in one piece, then 
miter and fit it after the glass is set. Before setting 



MAKING A CABINET 121 

the glass the cabinet should be scraped, sandpapered 
and made ready for the finish. The stain and filler 
should be applied, then the glass set. In setting this 
glass, place a cushion of putty in the rabbet first, then 
place the glass in the rabbet, pressing it firmly into 
the putty. Put another layer of putty on the glass 
and place the fillet of wood on this. Fasten the fillet 
in place, Fig. 127, with small brads and putty the 
holes made with putty colored to match the filler. 



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